Beyond Cabernet: Why Tannat Deserves a Place at Your Table (Voices 1)

I'm Simon Jacob, your host for this episode from Jerusalem. Before we get started, I ask that wherever you are, please take a moment and pray for the safety of our soldiers and the safe return of all of our hostages. Welcome back, dear listeners, to the Kosher Terroir, the podcast where we explore the rich tapestry of kosher wines, the people behind them, and the stories that have shaped the world of wine as we know it. I'm Simon Jacob, your host, and today we are about to embark on a journey that will take us across continents, through centuries of history, and deep into the heart of one of the most intriguing and powerful grape varieties—Tenat. Now if you're like most wine lovers, when you think of bold reds, your mind probably goes first to Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, but today we're turning the spotlight into a grape that has often flown under the radar. Yet, it has a cult following, a fascinating backstory, and a flavor profile that commands respect—Tenat. This is a variety that doesn't just whisper complexity, it roars it. In this episode, we're going to peel back the layers of Tenat's remarkable story. We'll explore its ancient origins and how it migrated from its birthplace in the foothills of the Pyrenees to new lands where it has found a second home and a whole new identity. We'll uncover how this once rustic and tannic grape became the national pride of Uruguay, and why some of the world's most passionate winemakers are now championing Tenat as the varietal of elegance, structure, and surprising finesse. You'll hear about how Tenat earned its reputation as a grape that can outlast time itself, producing wines of immense longevity, capable of aging gracefully for decades. We'll share compelling stories from the vineyard, from small family plots in the French heartland to expansive estates in South America. And we'll reveal some lesser-known facts, like how Tenat has found its way into the kosher winemaking world, and how new techniques are transforming what's possible with this ancient grape. But why does Tenat deserve your attention as a kosher wine lover? Well, beyond its sheer power and potential, Tenat challenges us to rethink what bold red wines can be. It forces us to reconsider our assumptions about structure, ageability, and food pairing. And perhaps more importantly, Tenat invites us into a conversation about tradition, innovation, and identity in the wine world. After all, this is a grape that had to migrate, adapt, and reinvent itself, much like the communities that have shaped kosher wine history across the centuries. So whether you're a seasoned collector looking for your next cellar-worthy bottle, or a curious newcomer eager to discover something off the beaten path, I promise, by the end of this episode you'll never look at a Tenat the same way again. What makes Tenat one of the most tannic grapes in the world? How did it become a symbol of national pride in Uruguay, and why do French farmers still revere it? Is Tenat always a powerhouse, or can it show elegance and grace? And in the kosher wine world, where does Tenat fit in? Is it the future of bold kosher reds? Well, we'll answer that, and so much more, in the episode ahead. If you're driving in your car, please focus on the road ahead. If you're relaxed at home, please pour yourself a glass, maybe of a robust red. If you have one handy, settle in and join me as we journey through the world of Tenat. Let's begin, as always, with its roots, the history of this extraordinary grape. Tenat's story begins in the rugged, sun-drenched foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains, a land straddling modern-day southwestern France and the Basque region. It is here, in these stony soils and cool mountain breezes, that Tenat first took root. The grape's name, as you might guess, comes from its defining characteristic, its extraordinary tannic structure. In Old Gascon dialect, the word Tenat is closely tied to tannin, the term for the tannins that give red wines their backbone and structure. From its earliest cultivation, Tenat was a grape for those who valued strength and longevity in their wines. The farmers and winemakers in Madiran, a small appellation near the heart of Gascony, recognized that Tenat yielded wines so dense, so astringent in their youth, that they could endure years, even decades, of aging, a wine of patience, of waiting, a wine that mirrored the character of the land and the people who nurtured it. By the Middle Ages, Tenat was firmly established in the Madiran and surrounding Bian and Basque territories. Monasteries played a crucial role in its development, as monks cultivated Tenat vines alongside other traditional varietals, producing wines not only for local consumption, but also for pilgrims journeying the Camino de Santiago. These were wines meant to fortify body and spirit, robust companions for the long and arduous trek to Santiago de Compostela. Tenat remained largely a local treasure for centuries, its cultivation mostly limited to small plots scattered across the hillsides of Madiran. The wines were rustic, dark, and tannic to the point of being nearly undrinkable in their youth, yet fiercely beloved by those who appreciated their aging potential. Traditionally, these wines were blended with small amounts of other local grapes, such as Cabernet Franc or Fer, to soften their harsh edges. But Tenat's destiny would change dramatically in the 19th century. Like many European varietals, Tenat faced devastation during the Phylloxera epidemic that swept across France. As vineyards were replaced and reimagined, Tenat held on stubbornly like the grape itself. Yet, the most dramatic chapter in its global journey was just about to begin. In the 1870s, Basque immigrants brought Tenat cuttings with them as they settled in South America, particularly in Uruguay. These early settlers, many of whom longed for the taste of home, planted Tenat in the rich soils of their adopted land. Little did they know that Uruguay would one day claim Tenat as its national grape, transforming its identity forever. Uruguay's climate proved a revelation for Tenat. The Atlantic breezes, the warm sun, and the clay loam soils produced grapes that retained the power and structure of the French Tenat, but gained a softness, a fruit-forward character, and a drinkability that would have astonished those old farmers, a madiran. What in France had been a wine of endurance and austerity became in Uruguay a wine of generosity and approachability, still bold, still structured, but with an elegance that drew new admirers. By the mid-20th century, Tenat was firmly entrenched in Uruguay's wine culture. Small family wineries, many still run by descendants of those original Basque immigrants, began refining their techniques, experimenting with oak aging, micro-oxygenation, a technique pioneered by the French winemaker Patrick de Cournot, to tame Tenat's tannins, and later, modern vineyard management to produce wines of both power and grace. Meanwhile, back in France, Tenat continued to evolve. Modern winemaking, gentler extraction methods, the use of new oak, blending strategies, allowed winemakers and madiran to soften Tenat's once-brutal edges. Today, madiran wines, while still firm and structured, are far more accessible in their youth, showcasing dark fruit, spice, and earthy tones that reflect both tradition and innovation. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, Tenat began attracting attention beyond its strongholds of Madiran and Uruguay. In the United States, particularly in California's Central Coast, Paso Robles, and even Virginia, pioneering winemakers planted Tenat, drawn to its reputation for structure, ageability, and unique character. In Israel, where the kosher wine world has expanded its varietal horizons in recent decades, Tenat plantings are rare but growing, with a few adventurous producers experimenting with single varietal bottlings and blends, recognizing the potential for Tenat's bold structure to pair beautifully with rich cuisine. Tenat's global rise speaks to the modern wine drinker's growing appetite for authenticity, for wines that tell a story of place and time, of struggle and triumph. It is a grape that has never sought the easy path from the craggy slopes of Madiran to the sunlit vineyards in Uruguay. Tenat has always demanded the best of its growers, its winemakers, and yes, its drinkers. Tenat's history isn't just a timeline of where it was planted and how it was vinified. It's a tapestry woven with powerful moments, bold characters, and twists of fate that transform a rustic, tannic grape into a symbol of resilience and national pride. Let's start with an early fact. Tenat was once called the black wine of Madiran, and for good reason. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Madiran's Tenat-based wines were so dark and dense that merchants shipping barrels down the Ador River and out of the ports of Bayonne would joke they could patch a sail with a splash of it. Growers prized the wine for its longevity on long sea voyages. It didn't spoil easily, thanks to the same tannins that made it challenging to drink young. The Phylloxera devastation of the 19th century is a key moment in Tenat's tale. While Phylloxera ravaged French vineyards, wiping out entire regions, Madiran's small scattered plantings of Tenat managed to survive in pockets longer than some other varietals, simply because the region was remote and less connected. But ultimately, like nearly all European vines, Tenat, too, had to be grafted onto American rootstock to survive. That shift forever altered vineyard practices and ushered in modern viticulture to the region. And then came one of the most remarkable migrations in the history of wine, Tenat's journey to Uruguay. In the 1870s, Pascal Harriag, a Basque immigrant, brought Tenat cuttings to Uruguay, likely as a reminder of home. Harriag was a visionary, and his plantings near Salto, in the north of the country, thrived. His success inspired others, and Tenat quickly spread across Uruguay, outcompeting other varietals and becoming a symbol of national agricultural identity. To this day, in Uruguay, you'll sometimes hear Tenat referred as Harriag in his honor. In a compelling twist, Tenat became a symbol of national identity for Uruguay, in much the same way Malbec did for Argentina, but with a smaller global spotlight. Tenat festivals, national competitions, and even government promotions of Tenat wines are part of Uruguay's cultural fabric. In 2002, Tenat was officially recognized as Uruguay's national grape, a testament to how this transplant from Europe became part of the country's soul. Back in France, a more recent chapter in Tenat's history centers on Patrick de Carnot, the winemaker who, in the 1980s, pioneered the use of micro-oxygenation, a technique that bubbled tiny controlled amounts of oxygen into the wine during fermentation and aging. This process helped tame Tenat's famously harsh tannins, softening the wine without long-aging. De Carnot's work didn't just change how Tenat was made, it revolutionized winemaking for tannic reds worldwide. There are other modern stories too, like that of Bodega Garzon in Uruguay, whose ambitious investment in state-of-the-art technology and sustainable viticulture helped put Uruguayan Tenat on the global fine wine map in the 21st century. Their wines earned accolades from critics who previously hadn't paid much attention to Tenat. Today, Garzon's Tenats are exported around the world, including to the kosher wine market. Another remarkable fact is that Tenat is one of the few grapes studied for its potential health benefits. Due to its extremely high levels of procyanidins, a type of tannin believed to support cardiovascular health, Tenat wines from Maduron have been cited in research related to the so-called French paradox. It's a rare example of grape varieties making headlines not just for taste but for its possible contribution to longevity. And finally, let's not forget the small quiet revolution in Israel. While not widespread, a handful of Israeli producers are now experimenting with Tenat, drawn by its potential to produce kosher wines that are both bold and structured, capable of aging gracefully and pairing with rich traditional dishes. These are early days, but the seeds of the new Tenat chapter are already being planted. So when you pour a glass of Tenat, you're not just tasting wine, you're tasting centuries of struggle, migration, innovation, and identity. Inky black, powerful, and utterly unforgettable. Okay, so you've heard all about Tenat's power, its bold tannins, and its journey from France to Uruguay. But like many great grapes, Tenat carries with it a treasure trove of lesser-known facts, surprising truths, and a few stubborn misconceptions. Let's peel back the curtain and explore what many wine lovers, even seasoned enthusiasts, don't know about this mighty varietal. We often say that certain wines are tannic, but in the case of Tenat, science backs up the claim. Studies have shown that Tenat has the highest levels of tannins of any known grape variety used in commercial winemaking. In fact, its tannin content is often double that or more of Cabernet Sauvignon. This isn't just about mouthfeel. Those tannins contribute to its remarkable ageability, its deep color, and its role in the so-called French paradox, where the consumption of red wine is linked to lower rates of heart disease. Speaking of the French paradox, while many grapes contain beneficial polyphenols and antioxidants, Tenat's Procyonadine levels are off the charts. Some studies even point to Madeiran Tenat as among the richest wines in heart-healthy compounds. In fact, researchers examining the diet of southwestern France's inhabitants link their longevity in part to their regular consumption of Tenat-based wines. So while moderation is always key, it's nice to think that Tenat might offer more than just sensory pleasure. Here's a fact that surprises many people. Uruguayan Tenat isn't genetically identical to French Tenat anymore. Over the last century and a half, the Tenat vines in Uruguay have evolved, adapting to local soils, climates, and vineyard practices. DNA analysis have revealed subtle but meaningful differences. Some Uruguayan Tenat clones produce softer tannins or more pronounced fruit character than the European ancestors. This helps explain why Uruguayan Tenat tends to be rounder and more approachable in youth. One of the biggest misconceptions about Tenat is that it's always rough, rustic, and challenging to drink young. While that might have been true of traditional Madeiran bottlings in the past, modern Tenat can be surprisingly elegant. Winemakers today use gentle extraction, shorter maceration times, careful oak aging, and techniques like micro-oxygenation to tame the grape's wilder nature. The result? Tenats that can show velvety textures, rich dark fruit and spice, and sometimes even within a year or two of harvest. The most associated with Madeiran in Uruguay, Tenat, has quietly spread around the world. In the U.S., it has gained a loyal following in Pasos Robles, Texas Hill Country, Arizona, and Virginia. In Brazil and Argentina, small plantings are producing noteworthy vines. And yes, even in Israel, Tenat is emerging with a handful of daring kosher producers experimenting with the varietal. Tenat's global map is more diverse than most people realize. We often hear Tenat recommended with heavy meats, lamb, beef, game. But did you know that in Uruguay, some locals swear by pairing Tenat with blue cheese and even dark chocolate desserts, actually both of those are my favorite? The wine's tannins interact with the fat and salt of the cheese and the bitterness of the dark chocolate in ways that can be surprisingly harmonious. And here's one to try, Tenat alongside grilled eggplant or smoky mushrooms. It's a pairing that brings out both the earthiness of the food and the depth of the wine. One fascinating niche that many don't know about, kosher Tenat, especially from Uruguay, is becoming a quiet favorite among adventurous kosher wine drinkers. Though the quantities are still small, these wines offer bold, age-worthy options for those seeking something beyond the usual suspects like Cabernet and Syrah. And because Tenat's natural tannins give structure without needing much intervention, it's a grape that fits well with kosher production methods, emphasizing minimal additives. And here's a curiosity, some ampullographers, say that three times fast, those are people who study grape vines in their history, believe that Tenat may share ancestry with certain ancient Basque and Iberian grapes that are now nearly extinct. This theory, though not fully proven, hints to Tenat's deep historical roots, perhaps stretching back far earlier than its known cultivation in Madiran. Tenat is a grape of hidden depths, literally and figuratively. Beneath its dark skins lie a world of complexity, history, and surprise. The next time someone tells you Tenat is just a tannic brute, you'll know better. You'll know it's a grape of nuance, culture, and untold stories. As we reach the end of our journey with Tenat, I invite you to pause for a moment and reflect on what this extraordinary grape represents. Not just in the glass, but the wider story of wine, culture, and resilience. Tenat isn't just a grape of tannins and dark color. It's a symbol of endurance, from its origins in the rugged hills of Madiran, where monks and farmers coast life from stony soils, to its rebirth across the Atlantic in Uruguay, where it transformed into a gentler, more approachable wine without losing its soul. Tenat teaches us about adaptation. It reminds us that sometimes strength lies in flexibility, that boldness and refinement are not opposites, they can coexist, harmonize, and elevate each other. In the world of kosher wine, Tenat opens doors. It challenges us to look beyond the familiar and to embrace varietals that may not yet be household names, but which offer richness, depth, and unique voice. As more kosher producers experiment with Tenat, whether in Uruguay, Israel, or even California, they're pushing boundaries. They're offering kosher wine lovers the chance to experience something both ancient and new, something that defies easy categorization. And isn't that the beauty of wines? Each bottle is more than fermented juice. It's history, geography, tradition, and human creativity all bottled up and waiting to be shared. Tenat's story reminds us that wine is a conversation between the land and the vine, between the winemaker and the drinker, between the past and the present. So here's my invitation to you. The next time you're browsing for a bottle, whether at your local shop, online retailer, or just at a tasting, seek out a Tenat. Whether it's from Maduran, Uruguay, or a kosher producer pushing the envelope, give this grape a chance to speak to you. Taste its depth, feel its structure, listen to its story. If you find a kosher Tenat, I'd love to hear about it. Share your experience with me, message me through the Kosher Terroir website, or connect on social media. Let's build a community that explores together. And finally, revisit the episodes of the Kosher Terroir you may have missed. We've explored varietals like Carignan, Grenache, and Colombard. We've journeyed through the histories of wineries, the minds of winemakers, and the complexities of kosher certification. Each episode is a chapter in this ongoing conversation, and I hope you'll be joining me for many more. In our upcoming episodes, we'll be diving into the stories of other grapes and regions that deserve the spotlight. We'll meet winemakers innovating in the kosher space. We'll explore ancient vineyards reborn. And we'll ask big questions. What does the future of kosher wine look like? How can tradition and technology coexist in the vineyards and cellars? So if you've enjoyed this journey with Tanat, I hope you'll subscribe, share this episode, and invite others to join us. Thank you for being part of this exploration. Tanat's story is far from over, and neither is ours. Together we'll continue to uncover the hidden gems of the wine world. One glass, one episode, one conversation at a time. Until next time, l'chaim, cheers. This is Simon Jacob again, your host of today's episode of the Kosher Terroir. I have a personal request. No matter where you are or where you live, please take a moment to pray for our soldier's safety and the safe and rapid return of our hostages. Please subscribe via your podcast provider to be informed of our new episodes as they are released. If you're new to the Kosher Terroir, please check out our many past episodes.